It’s the end of the coffee harvest in the Brazilian state of São Paulo, and a warehouse in the capital is buzzing with life. Jute sacks of green coffee beans are piled up, waiting to be put into cold storage. Buyers have come from around the world, and the roasting machine is still warm from the morning roast.
This is Isso é Café, a coffee shop in downtown São Paulo. Brazil’s long-standing concept of “export-grade coffee,” where the best stuff goes to foreigners, is starting to change in this city. Now, specialty coffee shops owned by the growers themselves, like Isso é Café, are beginning to flourish. There are currently more than 10 such places across São Paulo, in all shapes and sizes.