When winemakers wax poetic about the places that turned them on to grapes, they often cite regions in France. African coffees, like a perfumed Charmes-Chambertin from Burgundy or a haunting Chenin Blanc from Savennières in the Loire Valley, have the same indelible sway over coffee pros. Indeed, Africa may be the most exciting coffee-producing continent in the world, boasting incredible variety, history, and high quality. Although nearly a dozen African countries produce coffee, accounting for 12 percent of global production, most is bulk supply. Specialty-grade coffee, the focus here, is concentrated in East Africa.